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> Smoke Bluffs
> Krack Rock
Fairy Ring
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.9 from 50
votes
Routes in Krack Rock
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Beached Whale, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fairy Ring T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Koko Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lonely Thunder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mooshie Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On Sight Inc. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On Sight Inc. (Finger crack variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popsickle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turkey Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 49.70752, -123.14099 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 26,088 total · 159/month |
| Shared By: | Mark van Eijk on Sep 11, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Start off with a short, fun, and perhaps sandbagged crux with great hand jams and awkward body position. That's where the good times end... The second half of the climb is dirty, tedious, and the rock quality is poor. Rotten roots and grime clog the wide cracks and it seems no amount of cleaning could save this thing. The anchor bolts are easy to miss (far out right on the upper slab. If you make it to the trees, you've gone to far).
Some users on other sites have made the case that the start of this route is much harder than the guidebook proposes. It definitely requires some solid hand crack technique. While I wouldn't argue with an upgrade, it's certainly no harder than 5.7
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