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Little Maniac/Dead End Crack

5.10 R, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
Alaska > Fairbanks & Vic… > Granite Tors > Asgard Tor

Description

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.

Location

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo: C. Rowell
[Hide Photo] Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo: C. Rowell
Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. The crack gets very thin before it peters out into the upper face climbing section.  Photo: C. Rowell
[Hide Photo] Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. The crack gets very thin before it peters out into the upper face climbing section. Photo: C. Rowell

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt. Jun 10, 2013
[Hide Comment] Three bolts have been added to the top of this climb to eliminate "R" rating. Jun 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] Who added bolts? Jun 8, 2015
chanchito 17
blue van, on the highway to…
[Hide Comment] I can't believe this was led without the 3 bolts on the FA. Props to a bold climber! Would have been close to decking if he'd fallen off the top Sep 27, 2020
Ethan Berkeland
Fairbanks, AK
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] This is truly the best pitch in interior Alaska, even the face climbing at the top is excellent. Would be a mega-classic in Hatcher Pass. Worth the hike atleast once. It should be emphasized that this is not an R-rated climb. A solid 5.10 climber will find it well protected. Also: it’s 2020, the bolts belong on this climb. Oct 5, 2020