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Little Maniac/Dead End Crack
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 4
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
> Fairbanks & Vic…
> Granite Tors
> Asgard Tor
This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.
To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.
East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.