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Little Maniac/Dead End Crack
5.10 R,
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
Alaska
> Fairbanks & Vic…
> Granite Tors
> Asgard Tor
Description
This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.
To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.
Location
East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.
Protection
Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top
![Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo: C. Rowell]()
[Hide Photo] Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo: C. Rowell
![Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. The crack gets very thin before it peters out into the upper face climbing section. Photo: C. Rowell]()
[Hide Photo] Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. The crack gets very thin before it peters out into the upper face climbing section. Photo: C. Rowell
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I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt. Jun 10, 2013
Anchorage
Portland, OR
Fairbanks, AK