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Routes in Asgard Tor

Asgard Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Wall TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Maniac/Dead End Crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
Page Views: 1,502 total, 23/month
Shared By: A Stolpe on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.

Location

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
Who added bolts? Jun 8, 2015
Three bolts have been added to the top of this climb to eliminate "R" rating. Jun 8, 2015
This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt. Jun 10, 2013