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Routes in Main Face

Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladybug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peregrination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 788 total, 12/month
Shared By: mmainer on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Another hidden gem at Double Upper. You can do this as one long pitch but I think it's better as two.

Pitch 1 runs up and slightly right on easy slabs, passing a few bolts (with optional gear in between) then past a short tricky steeper spot to get to a two-bolt belay/rap anchor.

Pitch 2 moves up steeper ground past two bolts to an overlap, then up the left-facing bottomless corner. Then breaking right up easy ground to the spacious, pleasant ledge. The view from here is superb. Two raps with a single 60m rope will get you back down, via the first pitch anchor.

Location

About 30 feet right of Sling the Horn, on the mid-right side of the main face. Look carefully for two bolts.

Protection

some bolts, a few small-medium cams and nuts for the second pitch, a few single-length runners.

Photos

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Derek Doucet  
 
The second pitch requires very good loose rock judgment. Be extremely selective about where to place gear, as much of this pitch is hollow and loose. A 5.7 pitch for those comfortable leading 5.9. Sep 11, 2012