Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: Mark Sprague-TR
Page Views: 220 total · 3/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

On the right side of the Butolicious arete is a finger crack. Start up the first few bolts of Butolicious (recommended) or climb up the short corner to the right with marginal gear if you want to be a purist, to gain a stance. Head up the finger crack using some sharp painful finger locks through the crux (barndoory and a little reachy), then continue up a few face moves that share with Butolicios to gain the crack in the overlap that leads right. Follow the crack out to the second vertical hand crack that leads up and eventually angles back left to a bolted anchor. The climbing is very good (almost 3 stars, but I am trying not to pump the stars) except for the couple painful crux moves, and the gear seems good.

Jerry gave the working name for his guidebook. I have TRed this project, but have not lead it as I haven't figured out how to get a huge hanging jammed plate out from below the roof of the second pitch safely yet. You should be fine on the first pitch unless you get that one in a hundred year event and the plate decides to cut loose above you. Have at it if you wish.

The second pitch will need a few bolts and will be wild and hard. There is already a second pitch anchor.

Location

the right side of the bolted Butolicious arete

Protection

nuts and cams up to fist size. tape for your fingers

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