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Routes in Upper Slab and Upper Wall

Ancient Via Ferrata T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Escape Hatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Faust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moraviana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off-Width Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Upper Slab Routes T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 962 total, 15/month
Shared By: Don MacKenzie on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

From the bolt anchor atop the Upper Slab, angle left across a grassy ledge to reach an obvious buttress. Either climb out onto the buttress immediately and follow it up (5.6) or follow the right-facing corner to a tree before traversing left onto the buttress (5.5).

Head for some chockstones in a broken down section, and climb over them. Pass a small bulge, backing up a questionable fixed pin. Keep right and head for the fist-sized crack above, using it to pull over the crux bulge near the top (5.8). Belay from a gear anchor on the comfortable ledge.

Location

Start from bolt anchor at top left of Upper Slab.

From the top of the climb, a couple of exposed 3rd-class moves take you to the summit, whence you can hike back to the base of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot or equivalent. Extra fist-sized cams or large hexes for anchor.
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
 
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
 
I listed this as 5.8 because that's the guidebook rating. But it's certainly no harder than some of the 5.7's at the Precipice. Sep 10, 2012