Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Vanilla Sky

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 3.3 from 80 votes
FA: Alvino Pon
Texas > Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Awesome Roof

Description

Start in the middle of the roof on top of the large boulder. A direct start from the ground is viable but friable holds make it less than idea. Climb up the face to the roof and then start traversing on monster holds. After the third perma look for a hand swallowing pocket jug in the roof and pull some fun thugish moves on big hold over the lip

Location

middle of the roof.

Protection

four perma draws and mussey hooks at the anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the roof/crux.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the roof/crux.
Really fun clipping stance.
[Hide Photo] Really fun clipping stance.
Different angle on the roof pull
[Hide Photo] Different angle on the roof pull

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie Shannon
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Starting in the dihedral on the far left side of the slab is also a possibility. It's definitely easier but adds about 40ft of traverse moves, which can be a welcome warm-up before pulling the crux sequence at the lip to exit. The only downside is that this line gets super wet after a healthy rain. Give it a long while to dry out or you'll be in for a sloppy, muddy adventure. Nov 18, 2013
Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=OGdjoGT… Feb 2, 2014
Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Start from the ground instead of on the boulder to make it a (soft) 11c. Apr 28, 2014
Jon T
Houston, TX
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Do it from the ground! the boulder problem to the good ledge runs v1-v2 depending on your beta, and doesn't really drain any strength from the meat of the route. Jan 4, 2022