Type: Sport
FA: John Myrick
Page Views: 1,495 total · 19/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on Sep 9, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Sure to become a North Shore classic.
Start on side-pull tufas with a small sapling at face height. Climb through friable hollow rock to the first bolt and the sandy ledge. Continue straight up through excellent pockets and a thin edge to the tufas. Some interesting features here including a pocket with a mono-suitcase handle. The crux comes at the top of the tufas, making a left hand dead-point to a large pocket off of two thin slopey crimps. Juggy pockets to the finish after that.

Location

Dead center of the wall. Look for the tufas halfway up. Left of the obvious cave of Mossatopia.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

Adam Leedy
Austin, TX
  5.12a
Adam Leedy   Austin, TX
  5.12a
Sent this second go and it really is a fantastic climb.
That said, the consensus at the crag was that this will either get harder as it cleans up and holds break (making it a solid 12a) or will be down-graded to 11d in future prints of the book. Sep 10, 2012
BrianLee Lee
Austin, Texas
 
BrianLee Lee   Austin, Texas
 
Regardless of the grade, this is a great route with a variety of holds. Jul 9, 2014
I worked just as hard on this as I did Mossatopia LOLOLOL Oct 30, 2015