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Routes in 5.8 Wall

Left 1 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left 3 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Rapper's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: ? (Brandon Sortor & Scott Braeden 9/12)
Page Views: 794 total, 12/month
Shared By: BackCountry Sortor on Sep 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Rapper's Delight

Both pitches of the Another Friend route on the Upper 5.8 Wall trend left. The reppel lines are relatively plumb and this route is basically the 2nd rap-line off of the Another Friend route that drops you into the 5.8 gully. The climb is a much longer 5.8 trad route than those on the main 5.8 wall. 100' further up the same gully and a short and easy 10' scramble to a semi-flat belay station to the beginning of the climb. The route starts with a small roof (about 15' off the deck) and goes straight up the somewhat cracked face towards an obvious apex.

It's hard to imagine this hasn't been climbed before, but it doesn't show up in any of the guide books (or online) and a number of holds pulled off during our ascent. It's a great fun route that deserves more attention and will only get better with more traffic.

Location

About 100' further up the gully from the main 5.8 wall. It takes a short and easy 10' scramble to a semi-flat belay station and the beginning of the route.

Protection

Mostly tricky small nuts and small cam placements (we used nothing larger than a .5 C4).

Photos

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