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Routes in Shakers

Butter Knife T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joint Effort S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gremlins T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightman Cometh, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pointy Little Devil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Salt and Pepper Shaker T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Skid Marks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troll Toll T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Where You Been?! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Engle, Vern Phinney
Page Views: 850 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Sep 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Scramble up to the northwest edge of the formation to get to the start of the route. Climb up and right on large holds to the first bolt. From here, traverse right and up past two more bolts to gain the flake. The moves past the third bolt to the flake are a little thin.

Climb the flake until you reach a stance on the right hand side of the blade, where you can clip the next bolt. Climbing past this, and the next bolt are the crux of the climb. It's think it's the hardest 5.8 I've done! Both Black Hills Jim and I think it's closer to 5.10.

After the crux, clip a third bolt and continue to the summit. A single 60m rope will easily get you down to an easy scrable back to your stuff.

All in all a pretty cool route! Bolts were put in on lead so it has a little different flavor than the typical Rushmore sport route.

Location

Dark Tower is directly across the draw from Teachers Pet, and right of Crystal Ship. It's an obvious blade of rock. Cock Rock is directly behind it.

Protection

Protection is bolts and small to medium cams. Be sure to use some long slings in order to help reduce rope drag. There is a two-bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Tim Robinson
Custer, SD
  5.9
Tim Robinson   Custer, SD
  5.9
This felt a lot harder than 5.8 in spots. Traverse causes a lot of rope drag. Aug 3, 2015
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
There are new bolts and a new anchor(2b/chains) on this route. 3 traversing into the flake and 2 on your way to the chains after the flake. Really fun route w/ cool exposure. May 4, 2014
Kirtis Courkamp
Golden
 
Kirtis Courkamp   Golden
 
A very fine route with a heady second part after the flake. I would bring some webbing to replace the anchor slings if I remember right. Aug 30, 2013
L. Hamilton
  5.8+
L. Hamilton  
  5.8+
Excellent pitch, more complicated and a bigger lead effort than Pointy Little Devil next door. The long traverse makes it challenging for your second as well. Aug 26, 2013