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Routes in Main Wall

For Madmen Only TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hollywood T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Josh's Hump T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lester the Molester T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Library, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Notch, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuts T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snowflake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Sunday Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Undercling, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Witches Brew T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 609 total · 9/month
Shared By: minquatrails on Sep 8, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun climb that begginners could make it up. There are plenty of big holds that don't require fancy body positioning to use. Also some good hands free resting places to sort gear, take a breather or a picture.

Location

The start is the same as the Library. Move right at the ledge and follow the large crack to the top.

Protection

No fixed gear. Standard rack. Build your own anchor at the top or hike down. Gear is very hard to find on the first book leading to the ledge. I've heard you can use micro in the crack but I couldn't figure it out and anyway, I'm not sure what a 2kn nut is worth. I used a small alien cam on the outside (left) of the book midway up and wasn't thrilled with it. This was my 3rd trad lead so the experienced climber may find plenty of gear. Fortunately, after the first book you can put in as much gear as you want.

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