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Routes in Near Tors: Lizard's Eye

Broken Rope T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Reach T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Handburger Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Parks Highway T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Dan Jaffe 1992
Page Views: 420 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 5, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

A beautiful barndoor layback climb on a pinkish-orange arete. Start up a short thin crack to a nice stance at the bottom of the arete. Paste your feet and crank upwards while fighting the urge to barndoor off. When the arete becomes too rounded to continue, make a big move up right (crux) to a small crystalline crimp that resembles a set of teeth. Above, continue liebacking using whatever small crystals for feet you can find. Very nice!

Protection

TR off of 2 bolts (3/8").

Location

A very obvious pink-orange arete towards the left end of the West side of Lizard's Eye. Scramble up one of the routes on the east side (easy 5th class) or lead Easy Reach 5.7 (climber's right) to access the TR bolts. Rappel to descend or downclimb easy 5th class on the east side.

Photos

This route could be a bitchin' little sport climb with the addition of about 3 lead bolts.. Sep 6, 2012