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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathan Smoot
Page Views: 706 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

About 50 feet above the obvious starting corner of Tres Facile, above and to the right of Black Monday, is a slightly overhanging headwall with two bolted lines. Gas Chamber is the right-most. Start up Tres Facile (5.6 but readily 4th classable) until able to break left to two bolts marking a somewhat contrived line to the base of the overhanging headwall. Puzzle through the strenuous moves above, then cope with the likely pump to the anchors, passing three more bolts en route. The narrative for the route in the Ruckmans' guide has this as 11b/c (although their topo shows it as 11c, a time-honored tactic of guidebook authors reluctant to pin down a grade), but it seemed harder than Cross Town and Mass Wasting to me.

Location

Above the start for Tres Facile.

Protection

Draws, but if skittish about soloing a 5.6 move 15-20 feet off the ground, bring some gear. Lower from anchors; one rope is fine.

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dnaiscool  
 
If Cross Town and Mass Wasting are .11c, then this is .11d...or harder.

Did something break off! Apr 21, 2015