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Hell Broke Luce

A2+, Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: TDA & Durf
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > Peeler Face
Warning Access Issue: On private land. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.

Location

Between the Unknown A3 route and the second pitch of the Serpent. Rappel with one 60 meter rope to the chain anchor on the Peeler Direct route. One more rap to the ground is needed from there.

Protection

Cams to #3 camalot (3.5 camalot useful but not mandatory), #0-#3 metolius tcu's, thin knifeblades, #1, #2 angles, lost arrows (short/thin), four birdbeaks. Lots of runners to alleviate rope drag when exiting the Black Peeler route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

tasty splitter on the last pitch
[Hide Photo] tasty splitter on the last pitch
pitons are fun
[Hide Photo] pitons are fun
The route
[Hide Photo] The route
the broken pin that sent for me for a digger.
[Hide Photo] the broken pin that sent for me for a digger.
Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 20 footer
[Hide Photo] Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 20 footer

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
[Hide Comment] Now how did we miss that one? Good addition! Oct 2, 2017
Rhett Burroughs
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] P2 - blew out a beak placement on the crux - exfoliating rotten expando flake. stick clip maybe advisable to get past the 5ft required to hit the first bolt. Apr 16, 2022
Stevie Nacho
Utah
  A2+
[Hide Comment] It’s pretty delicate up there. I used two equalized half in beaks there. On my second solo ascent, I was probably weighing 210 lbs. I thought that last placement was short for this life. Apr 17, 2022
Stevie Nacho
Utah
  A2+
[Hide Comment] Hey Rhett,
Did the beak pull out or the rock blew out? Wondering if this section is still doable. Mar 25, 2023
Jake W
Millcreek, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Softball size scar where the rock blew out. Still goes just fine with a lower placement. Apr 14, 2025