To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Hell Broke Luce
A2+,
Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.2 from 6
votes
FA: TDA & Durf
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Black Peeler Bu…
> Peeler Face
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.
Location
Between the Unknown A3 route and the second pitch of the Serpent. Rappel with one 60 meter rope to the chain anchor on the Peeler Direct route. One more rap to the ground is needed from there.
Protection
Cams to #3 camalot (3.5 camalot useful but not mandatory), #0-#3 metolius tcu's, thin knifeblades, #1, #2 angles, lost arrows (short/thin), four birdbeaks. Lots of runners to alleviate rope drag when exiting the Black Peeler route.
[Hide Photo] Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 20 footer
Wasatch Back, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Utah
Utah
Did the beak pull out or the rock blew out? Wondering if this section is still doable. Mar 25, 2023
Millcreek, UT