Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: TDA & Durf
Page Views: 1,211 total · 16/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.


Between the Unknown A3 route and the second pitch of the Serpent. Rappel with one 60 meter rope to the chain anchor on the Peeler Direct route. One more rap to the ground is needed from there.


Cams to #3 camalot (3.5 camalot useful but not mandatory), #0-#3 metolius tcu's, thin knifeblades, #1, #2 angles, lost arrows (short/thin), four birdbeaks. Lots of runners to alleviate rope drag when exiting the Black Peeler route.


Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Now how did we miss that one? Good addition! Oct 2, 2017