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Hell Broke Luce
A2+
Avg: 2.2 from 6
votes
Routes in Peeler Face
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Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R |
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Between Iraq and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Birthday Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 |
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Ezra the Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hell Broke Luce T A2+ |
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Lost Puppies In The Dye T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peeler Direct C2 |
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Peeler Face | 5765 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Riveting 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C1 |
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Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 |
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Skin Man T A3 |
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Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Tin Man T A3 |
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Whoops T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.5741, -111.7479 |
| FA: | TDA & Durf |
| Page Views: | 2,189 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Sep 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.
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