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Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown? Peter Lenz and Leo Gokovski 8/30/12
Page Views: 192 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Gokovski on Aug 31, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

P1: Start climbing at the very base of the ridge. Easy climbing here.
Belay by slinging a boulder right before a 7 feet tall vertical section with a splitter finger crack.

P2: A single easy move (5.5-5.6) will get you over the vertical section and back to easy climbing. Tend to climb the right ridge. The quality of the rock deteriorates, and many loose blocks of variable size are present. Tread carefully. Sling a boulder at a stance 10 feet pass a knife-edge ridge, distinguishable by a right facing corner.

P3: Climb down from the belay back to the right-facing corner. climb the knife-edge/corner and turn to the face above (5.7+). This section is exposed and the gear less frequent than one may want. Take a look around, smile, and protect the crux moves with a nut or a sling tied onto a small rock bridge. a few moves up will take some more pro. Calculate your way directly up the face. After a small runout you may straddle the arete and place pro. On the next section the difficulty eases considerably. Sling yet another bolder and belay when it appear that the ridge takes more of a horizontal character.

P4/Exit: 4th class/easy 5th will lead you southbound on the ridge, which will terminate onto a short cliff. Exit left (East) by traversing a ledge with a big tree who's roots had separated a boulder from the main wall. Walk down the gully to your packs.

Location

The route ascends the second ridge to the east of Glass Ocean Wall.
A faint trail in a steep and tree choked gully from Steort's Ridge will lead you to the base. Start at the very beginning of the ridge.

Descent: Walk off.

Note: No evidence of earlier passage en route were encountered. Due to the moderate nature of the route, However, it is plausible the line had been climbed in the past.

Protection

Protection: tips to hands (1 set) + 1 set of nuts. 6-8 slings.
No Bolts, no fixed gear, sling boulders for anchors. (Two accessory chords or double length slings will be useful for anchors)

Photos

John Steiger
  5.7
John Steiger  
  5.7
Yeah, this was likely climbed before by the Wasatch legends of the 40s and 50s, who seemed to seek out long alpine ridges, but naming it doesn't bug me, although you may want to go with something like "STP Ridge," similar to the other ridge climbs on Storm Mountain, i.e., Patty’s Ridge, Steorts' Ridge, North Ridge, Standard Ridge (the Ridge Five-fecta?). If STP is viewed more as a mountaineering route, particularly if the ridge is taken all the way to Buena Vista Wall, it deserves two stars IMO. I stayed on the very edge of the ridge for all but maybe 10 feet and found it 5.7ish and not scary loose -- kinda standard for Wasatch ridges. There are a number of places to bail, including from the ledge with the belay block before the crux pitch as described above -- just walk 15' left to the rap anchors at the base of the Vector 5.12s. If you go all the way to Buena Vista, there's a cool little gendarme to go over, probably the only place one might want a rope beyond the crux pitch described above. A decent, switchbacking trail east of the ridge can be descended all the way from the Buena Vista; one can saunter back to the base in 15 minutes. Jun 26, 2016
PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
  5.8+ R
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
  5.8+ R
This climb ascends the ridge with Vector Madness on climbers left and the Geezer Wall on the right. Be prepared for some loose rock and dubious protection. Because of these issues I rated it 5.8+ and gave it a low quality mark. I did enjoy the route, though. The last pitch is exposed and the climbing is good. Sep 1, 2012