Arête des Papillons

This route goes free at 5c+/6a depending where you look... not 5.8. It could go at 5.8 A0. Jul 18, 2015

Fun route, but does go free at harder than 5.8. Also I found some of the sections to have some nasty falls, even for a follower. The pictures here labeled P1 are not accurate. That is the start of p2. P1 starts with double offdiwith. Also the approach involves some 4th/ low 5th moves. Aug 7, 2016

This route description should be edited because the first-order details are wrong. The route is 14 PITCHES not 1 pitch. And the crux is 6a (5.10-), not 5b (5.8). Aug 6, 2017

This route can safely be considered 5.8.

The entire route goes at 5.8 or less except for a short bit at the very end. This happens right off the "mailbox" belay of the last pitch. This short bit can be surmounted using a sequence of two fixed pins. The local guidebooks (e.g. Batoux's) call this "5c/6a, 5a obl.".

Whether you intend to do these moves free or aid is only a question of two optional moves, and does not meaningfully impact the character of the route.

One thing that does affect the character of the route is the guidebook time of 3 hours (Batoux's guide). If you abide by this, expediency will determine whether you free/aid, and how many segments you pitch out vs. simulclimb. 14 is the upper most limit, and you will are unlikely to make guidebook time if you do it this way.

For anybody wondering if they should try this route, but are worried about the difficulty, know that someone who is efficient on 5.8 can safely do this route.

My PG13 rating comes from at least two traverses where there's potential for cut ropes if you fall. This has happened and people died. Worth thinking about if you have the option of double ropes. Aug 21, 2017