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Routes in Aiguille du Peigne

Arête Des Minettes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arête des Papillons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lepidopteres T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voie Contamine, West Face of Gendarme Rouge(Red) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 820 ft, 14 pitches
FA: H. Camere / R. Dewas July 12, 1926
Page Views: 2,975 total, 47/month
Shared By: Victor Grau Serrat on Aug 31, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

Beautiful and very enjoyable ridge traverse, quite aerial in sevral sections. The route follows the ridge that climbs de Aiguille du Peigne, sorting through four different towers on either side. Easiest descent is through the Papillons Coloir, completely dry in the summer, with a couple of rappels.

As per comments 5.8 A0 (Aiding off 2 pins) is the most common rating, going without is 5.10-.

Location

The start of the route is about 45min from the Plan de l'Aiguille mid-station of the cableway to the Aiguille du Midi. As you exit the station, is right in front of you.

Protection

Standard trad climbing rack for a ridge: set of cams, nuts and a some slings.
Bogdan P
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Bogdan P   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
This route can safely be considered 5.8.

The entire route goes at 5.8 or less except for a short bit at the very end. This happens right off the "mailbox" belay of the last pitch. This short bit can be surmounted using a sequence of two fixed pins. The local guidebooks (e.g. Batoux's) call this "5c/6a, 5a obl.".

Whether you intend to do these moves free or aid is only a question of two optional moves, and does not meaningfully impact the character of the route.

One thing that does affect the character of the route is the guidebook time of 3 hours (Batoux's guide). If you abide by this, expediency will determine whether you free/aid, and how many segments you pitch out vs. simulclimb. 14 is the upper most limit, and you will are unlikely to make guidebook time if you do it this way.

For anybody wondering if they should try this route, but are worried about the difficulty, know that someone who is efficient on 5.8 can safely do this route.

My PG13 rating comes from at least two traverses where there's potential for cut ropes if you fall. This has happened and people died. Worth thinking about if you have the option of double ropes. Aug 21, 2017
BradLipovsky
  5.10-
BradLipovsky  
  5.10-
This route description should be edited because the first-order details are wrong. The route is 14 PITCHES not 1 pitch. And the crux is 6a (5.10-), not 5b (5.8). Aug 6, 2017
Fun route, but does go free at harder than 5.8. Also I found some of the sections to have some nasty falls, even for a follower. The pictures here labeled P1 are not accurate. That is the start of p2. P1 starts with double offdiwith. Also the approach involves some 4th/ low 5th moves. Aug 7, 2016
brat
5.10a
brat  
5.10a
This route goes free at 5c+/6a depending where you look... not 5.8. It could go at 5.8 A0. Jul 18, 2015