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Routes in 0. Henderson's Buttress

Achille's Heel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bull Dog T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Henderson T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Muir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No Guts, No Glory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C0
Noonie Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Our Mine's I T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stoned T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pat Hoyt, Joe Labelle, Jack Ragle, Howard Stidham, July 1967
Page Views: 272 total · 4/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 30, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Start up the southern outside part of the large right facing corner to broken rock (5.3) to join Henderson before the grand traverse ledge 100+ belay. Get to the large ledge and access the the large right facing wall of buttress to get into and up an open book (5.6) to belay ledge. Ted Hammond and I got lost here on the next pitch and did one way or another to get up this wall (way beyond 5.7 and more like 9-10). Anyway the description is-continue up open book to move out onto steeper wall, up flakes? onto a ramp alcove under an overhang (5.7) belay 40ft. Continue up wall to a jam crack inside corner, move right again under overhang to surmount the right side to bushes (5.7) belay 100ft. Scramble up bushes and weak rock to finish up tunneling through the bushes. Aid was used on first ascent. Route finding is very difficult. Which overhang? Which corner crack? We chose the wrong ones. Another meat grinder to fall off from. Climb is about 400ft up but the last 100ft is 4th class. Adventure climbing and rock quality wasn't bad.


Southern outside wall of the large right facing corner.


Trad rack medium and large recommended. Narrow pins would be a good accessory. Rabbit's foot.


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