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Black Tie Affair

5.12, Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Daniel Montague
Maryland > Harper's Ferry > Maryland Height… > Train Tunnel Wall
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Description

P1: Climbing out the left corner of the pit, head up a jagged, overhanging crack. (The route might be marked by an Indian Creek style stone at the base). The first pitch follows the previously mentioned crack (system) all the way to a ledge at ~100 feet. On the way to the anchors, you will climb an overhang to a tricky mantle, a short slab section, another overhang, another slab, and the final crux, an ever-so-slightly overhanging face split by a rapidly closing crack.

P2: This pitch is best avoided. However, if you're interested, climb up from the anchors to a loose crack that leads over the small roof and then head up to the top. Pitch 2 can be done in one rope length if you don't mind a little drag. Keep a good eye out for loose rock on this pitch.

Location

The left edge of the train tunnel wall. This crack is obvious from the bridge.

Protection

Assuming you climbed the first pitch, the gear on the second pitch is trivial. That being said, for the first pitch, you'll want a wide range. A standard rack should do with a few extra pieces: there's a perfect placement for a #6 C4 just before the second overhang, a shallow Red C3 or similar piece is absolutely crucial just before the final crux unless you have a slider nut for the preceeding horizontal. Just for ease of mind, you can save a #1 C4 to protect the mantle to the anchors. The gear is all there, but it can be tricky to suss out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Black Tie Affair starting from the pit
[Hide Photo] Black Tie Affair starting from the pit
Bringing Martin up through the crux
[Hide Photo] Bringing Martin up through the crux
Full first pitch, anchors, and partial second pitch
[Hide Photo] Full first pitch, anchors, and partial second pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C S
Maryland
[Hide Comment] Video on YouTube of a climber ascending this route on toprope. Could be useful beta for interested parties. (as of 20190204)
youtu.be/CK0BashFC4E Feb 4, 2019