Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Daniel Montague
Page Views: 2,246 total · 19/month
Shared By: Daniel Montague on Aug 29, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2022 Peregrine Closure Starting Feb. 2022. Mandatory Sign in for Maryland Heights (not during Covid). Closed to climbing, VA crags, Jefferson rock, and all rocks along Shenandoah Street. Note: All parking is closed along Sandy Hook rd. Details
Access Issue: Train Property Details

Description

P1: Climbing out the left corner of the pit, head up a jagged, overhanging crack. (The route might be marked by an Indian Creek style stone at the base). The first pitch follows the previously mentioned crack (system) all the way to a ledge at ~100 feet. On the way to the anchors, you will climb an overhang to a tricky mantle, a short slab section, another overhang, another slab, and the final crux, an ever-so-slightly overhanging face split by a rapidly closing crack.

P2: This pitch is best avoided. However, if you're interested, climb up from the anchors to a loose crack that leads over the small roof and then head up to the top. Pitch 2 can be done in one rope length if you don't mind a little drag. Keep a good eye out for loose rock on this pitch.

Location

The left edge of the train tunnel wall. This crack is obvious from the bridge.

Protection

Assuming you climbed the first pitch, the gear on the second pitch is trivial. That being said, for the first pitch, you'll want a wide range. A standard rack should do with a few extra pieces: there's a perfect placement for a #6 C4 just before the second overhang, a shallow Red C3 or similar piece is absolutely crucial just before the final crux unless you have a slider nut for the preceeding horizontal. Just for ease of mind, you can save a #1 C4 to protect the mantle to the anchors. The gear is all there, but it can be tricky to suss out.

Photos