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Routes in Train Tunnel Wall
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Air Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Black Tie Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Center Stage and All Alone T A2 PG13 |
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Long and Hard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outrage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spectacular Spectacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whirlpool T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Daniel Montague |
| Page Views: | 2,246 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Montague on Aug 29, 2012 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2022 Peregrine Closure Starting Feb. 2022. Mandatory Sign in for Maryland Heights (not during Covid). Closed to climbing, VA crags, Jefferson rock, and all rocks along Shenandoah Street. Note: All parking is closed along Sandy Hook rd.
Details
2022 Peregrine Closures
After raising the first successful fledgling at Harpers Ferry in 70 years, a pair of peregrine falcons have returned once again to nest on Maryland Heights in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.
To provide the peregrine falcons adequate space for nesting, the National Park Service (NPS) will close portions of Maryland Heights from Feb. 16 to July 29, 2022. The closures include several rock outcroppings near the overlook and the following climbing areas:
The Gully
Sign Wall
ABC Ramps
Train Tunnel Wall
Confederate Walls
All trails on Maryland Heights and the Union Walls climbing area will remain open. Closed areas will be clearly marked with signs and fencing.
Peregrine falcons are a sensitive species and had not successfully hatched chicks at Maryland Heights in several decades prior to last year’s success. In spring 2021, the peregrine couple produced three hatchlings, but only one chick survived the vulnerable newborn phase and successfully fledged (developed feathers that enabled it to fly). Human interference, especially during the nesting phase, can drive off mature falcons, cause abandonment of the nest and result in the loss of eggs or death to fledglings. NPS staff asks that people respect closures to give the peregrine falcons a safe habitat to breed and nest.
For more information about peregrine falcons at the park, visit go.nps.gov/HFfalcons.
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MD Heights Registration
Registration is required prior to climbing on Maryland Heights. To register for climbing on MD Heights visit the Lower Town Information Center (however not required during Covid)
Cliffs that are closed to climbing and bouldering are Jefferson Rock, and the various quarry sites and small rock outcrops along Shenandoah Street. Virginia Rock Climbing is close which is basically the Virginia Cliff.
Parking Restrictions
All Parking is closed on Sandy Hook Rd by the County Department of Highways including the trail head for Maryland Heights.
After raising the first successful fledgling at Harpers Ferry in 70 years, a pair of peregrine falcons have returned once again to nest on Maryland Heights in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.
To provide the peregrine falcons adequate space for nesting, the National Park Service (NPS) will close portions of Maryland Heights from Feb. 16 to July 29, 2022. The closures include several rock outcroppings near the overlook and the following climbing areas:
The Gully
Sign Wall
ABC Ramps
Train Tunnel Wall
Confederate Walls
All trails on Maryland Heights and the Union Walls climbing area will remain open. Closed areas will be clearly marked with signs and fencing.
Peregrine falcons are a sensitive species and had not successfully hatched chicks at Maryland Heights in several decades prior to last year’s success. In spring 2021, the peregrine couple produced three hatchlings, but only one chick survived the vulnerable newborn phase and successfully fledged (developed feathers that enabled it to fly). Human interference, especially during the nesting phase, can drive off mature falcons, cause abandonment of the nest and result in the loss of eggs or death to fledglings. NPS staff asks that people respect closures to give the peregrine falcons a safe habitat to breed and nest.
For more information about peregrine falcons at the park, visit go.nps.gov/HFfalcons.
________________________
MD Heights Registration
Registration is required prior to climbing on Maryland Heights. To register for climbing on MD Heights visit the Lower Town Information Center (however not required during Covid)
Cliffs that are closed to climbing and bouldering are Jefferson Rock, and the various quarry sites and small rock outcrops along Shenandoah Street. Virginia Rock Climbing is close which is basically the Virginia Cliff.
Parking Restrictions
All Parking is closed on Sandy Hook Rd by the County Department of Highways including the trail head for Maryland Heights.
Access Issue: Train Property
Details
While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended.
Description
P1: Climbing out the left corner of the pit, head up a jagged, overhanging crack. (The route might be marked by an Indian Creek style stone at the base). The first pitch follows the previously mentioned crack (system) all the way to a ledge at ~100 feet. On the way to the anchors, you will climb an overhang to a tricky mantle, a short slab section, another overhang, another slab, and the final crux, an ever-so-slightly overhanging face split by a rapidly closing crack.
P2: This pitch is best avoided. However, if you're interested, climb up from the anchors to a loose crack that leads over the small roof and then head up to the top. Pitch 2 can be done in one rope length if you don't mind a little drag. Keep a good eye out for loose rock on this pitch.
P2: This pitch is best avoided. However, if you're interested, climb up from the anchors to a loose crack that leads over the small roof and then head up to the top. Pitch 2 can be done in one rope length if you don't mind a little drag. Keep a good eye out for loose rock on this pitch.
Protection
Assuming you climbed the first pitch, the gear on the second pitch is trivial. That being said, for the first pitch, you'll want a wide range. A standard rack should do with a few extra pieces: there's a perfect placement for a #6 C4 just before the second overhang, a shallow Red C3 or similar piece is absolutely crucial just before the final crux unless you have a slider nut for the preceeding horizontal. Just for ease of mind, you can save a #1 C4 to protect the mantle to the anchors. The gear is all there, but it can be tricky to suss out.
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