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Routes in Cheese Roof

Cheese Sauce S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheesy Livin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
DA ILLA PILLA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Power Pie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sweet Cheeses S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Dunnit? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: All Rainey
Page Views: 911 total · 12/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Aug 29, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

This route would be 4 stars anywhere, but stands out in Tensleep as the climbing is atypical for the area - steep compression and climbing up a singular feature for the duration of the climb.

Begin with some long pulls in the sandstone band low on the wall then navigate the crack just as the pillar steepens.  At bolt three the climb launches up a narrow steep refrigerator with less than ideal holds and essential heel hooks that make for some spicy clipping positions.  Find a marginal rest as the angle switches to vert then launch into another very tricky two bolt sequence before you get the chance to breath as you stand at the slab stance with 50 feet of pure joy remaining above you.  Although the climbing from here to the chains is much easier the sequences and position could not be more engaging and amazing as you continue to climb the pillar that protrudes from the rest of the wall all the way to the chains.

This is easily in the running for best low end 5.13 in Tensleep Canyon.  DO THIS CLIMB !

Protection

12 bolts to open shuts.

Photos

Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
FA: ALLI RAINEY Jan 21, 2013

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