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Routes in Noname Needle

Noname Needle, Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 976 total · 13/month
Shared By: dancesatmoonrise on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Noname Needle resides on the Jagged ridgeline, between Jagged Mountain to the east and Gray Needle to the west, at 13,620 feet. It has two summits; the north summit is the true summit. Ascend the weakness between the two summits on the west side. The terrain is about 5.8 on good quality granite.

The route takes pro in the 1-3" range. Belay at the top of this west-facing weakness.

Pitch two is a scramble up and around the west and north sides of, and ultimately onto, the huge summit block, which is about six or eight feet thick, and maybe the size of your living room or dining room. This huge block can easily be seen from the Noname drainage, far below. The views are unparalleled.


Once in the Noname drainage, the trail is much easier to follow. Ascend the drainage to meadows at 11,000 feet. From here, the trail continues left, up a hill (NE) to treeline. At this point, we crossed the creek and headed directly for the Peak 10 - Noname saddle. Ascend this west drainage, but look for a SW sub-gully to your left. Look for the twin summits of Noname to aim for. The terrain is loose in places but not as steep as it appears from lower down. Mostly third and steep second class. Aim for Noname. We then scrambled up and left to the rock window in the gully between Noname and the needle immediately to the west, then from there, and easy walk to the base of the central west-facing weakness on Noname Needle.




We used a single 60m twin for this trip, which included Sunlight Spire. This works well as a lightwieght option in the alpine, tying in to the middle and using standard twin technique for leading fifth class. Oct 1, 2012

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