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Great Expectations
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.9 from 8
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Routes in Dream Weaver Wall
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Dream Weaver T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Expectations T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Locomotive Breath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psycho Path T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tiptoe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,803 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kurtz on Aug 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson |
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Description
This route wanders delightfully all over the face to the left of Right Wing wall. Start in the Herbarium corner and climb up about 15 feet onto the protruding block. Traverse all the way to the left, passing under a small roof formed by another large block. Follow the ramp you'll find on the other side, up until you are forced onto the arete on your right by a roof. Step right onto the face and move your feet up in preparation for a big step left. Grasp the sloper gratefully and scramble up the arete to the top.
Protection
Best with double ropes because of traverse. A 4"+ cam protects the first moves. Plenty of pro across the traverse and at the start of the ramp, BUT... opportunites and quality dwindle to zero long before you reach the crux.
The metal railings cemented into the top can be used to anchor a toprope. Protect against a pendulum at the start by flicking the rope over the corner of the block.
The metal railings cemented into the top can be used to anchor a toprope. Protect against a pendulum at the start by flicking the rope over the corner of the block.
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