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Routes in Genocide Cave

Disturbance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Genocide T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Green Envy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Phil Wilt, Mike Artz 1983. Entire line: Chick Holtcamp 1987
Page Views: 758 total, 12/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

At the far left end of the "Genocide Cave" is its namesake route, Genocide. A somewhat scruffy, poweful overhanging face leads to a stance in an alcove. Clip the only bolt on the route at about 30 feet, breathe a sigh of relief, and ready yourself for the cruxy exit to establish a stance at the base of the beautiful finger/thin hands crack. This is what you live for, or hopefully so. A 10 foot section of thin finger locks gains you easier crack climbing. Gain your composure through this section as you ready yourself for one last thinker move.

Location

Left end of the Genocide cave,just left of McCray Fish and Chips.

Protection

An onsight would be proud and very bold. With that said, climb smart. The top protects fine, the bottom is the issue. You can protect the bottom adequately but should you not get the crucial peice or botch the clip and fall, you are looking at groundfall potential. Make sure your belayer is attentive and knows the deal. 1 bolt. Bolted anchor.

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