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Routes in Deer Mountain South Side

Common Potoo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lonesome George T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SSE Ridge T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 272 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a little line that makes you wonder if it'll be hard to protect and slopey. Nyet to both. It's fun and juggy, but too bad it didn't continue for another 500 feet or more.

The name is in honor of the last of his species. Salud!

Nearly straight across from the SSE Ridge start on the 2nd buttress, this line ascends lighter colored rock that seems a bit more granitic than most of the gneiss nearby. You can weave your way probably just about anywhere you like as you hunt for pockets for cams in the overlaps. About 50' up, you get a choice to go left or right. Left gives you the 5.7 move and then the jugs continue. At the top where the angle eases off, you can traverse right to a tree for an anchor.

To descend, go up on 3rd class terrain. There is a downscramble maybe 60' below the top of the lower half of this rock. It is followed by a bushy ascent up to a notch and then down into the gully. If you want, you can continue up further to the throne and downclimb into the gully with some hunting around.

Location

This starts on the rightmost buttress almost directly across from the start of the SSE Ridge on the 2nd buttress.

Protection

Wires and cams to a #1 Camalot works. Doubles of #1s and extra tiny cams may be nice.

Photos

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