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Routes in Deer Mountain South Side

Common Potoo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lonesome George T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SSE Ridge T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 373 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a short, fun, juggy, visually unimpressive line. It is something you can add on if you do the SSE on the buttress just to the west as you descend back to your gear. 1.6 stars.

Below the gully that splits this crag, there is a slightly bigger boulder. Climb on jugs that just keep coming. The gear takes a bit of time to find. You, however, will have great stances for every placement. Aim for just right of a tiny roof ~100' up. You can belay where the angle eases off ~120' up or on the throne ~150' up.

To descend, you must downclimb/scramble into the gully. If you are willing to downclimb a bit, it is probably easiest to go slightly east from the throne, gain a ramp, skirt around a taller downclimb to find a shorter downclimb through a slot. Then go up a short way into a notch and go down to the gully between the 1st and 2nd buttresses.

To do the downscramble, you go down 3rd class maybe 60 vertical feet to get into the gully. Then, go through bushes up the gully to get to the notch.

Location

This is below the gully splitting the 1st buttress. It starts near a slightly bigger boulder. There are probably a bunch of climbs that can be done here near the same rating.

Protection

A rack of wires and cams to a #3 Camalot will work.

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