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Routes in Bull Rock

Bull Dyke S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bull Headed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Earnie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Not Too Steep for my Lichen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slanting Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Too Cold For My Asspen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Bob Archbold
Page Views: 94 total, 1/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 24, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is the left to right rising crack to the left of Dirty Earnie. It's a little dirty itself and doesn't seem to get much traffic, but it's a fun climb regardless. After clipping the bolt (optional) you'll encounter the sequence of 5.8 moves. After gaining the upper portion of the climb it's a easy jog to the top.

Location

Left to Right rising crack just right of Dirty Earnie. You'll see the one bolt about 12 ft up.

Protection

There is one bolt on this route but it really isn't needed. There is a good pocket maybe a foot to the left that takes a decent cam placement and another good pocket after the bolt to the right that takes another. Good gear throughout. Currently has no anchors, either set up a trad belay or finish the easy 5th class arete to the top of dirty earnie and use these anchors to belay from the top. Must be followed due to the nature of the L-R crack.

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Mike Cohen
  5.9
Mike Cohen  
  5.9
I climbed this on 6/20/14, and the single bolt on the route popped out completely with almost no resistance after I started climbing. So I guess this is no longer a mixed line. Jun 25, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
 
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
 
fyi, new guidebook lists this climb as 5.9+... Nov 5, 2012