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Routes in Grease & Grime Wall

Grease & Grime S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 81 total, 1/month
Shared By: bmdhacks on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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9 Opinions

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Description

Start on a set of shallow ledges up a darker section of the rock. Not terribly steep climbing for the grade, apart from a single bulge to pull over.

Location

Up a black streak, currently the only route on the Grease & Grime Wall. See the area description for directions.

Protection

11 bolts plus chains

Photos

Courtney Pace   Sandy
Yea the comment in the book as one of the best 10b's around is way off. Fun route though, just nowhere near the best for the grade. The finish is exciting. There is lose stuff about 2/3 way up on the left side of the bolt line, but there is enough out right to avoid the choss.
Worth doing if you are headed up to Lou's Tavern. Aug 27, 2016
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10b
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10b
Not sure about the choss comments. I didn't notice much at all. If you get much out of the bolt line I could see it possibly getting a bit chossy. Its a bit mossy down low but other than that it was a super fun route. Nice and airy feeling for the last few bolts. Not sustained really, but we really enjoyed the route. And calling this a 5.9 is just a sandbag comment. The moves to get around the roof/bulge are solid 10b for Maple. Jul 5, 2016
drock3
5.9
drock3  
5.9
Found a good amount of bad rock on this route. I'd say it's mostly slab-paddling with 4 feet of climbing. Definitely not a classic as the books suggests. Sep 21, 2014
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
 
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
 
Definitely choss. The endorsement in the guidebook "possibly one of the best 10b's anywhere" is laughable. Aug 25, 2013
bmdhacks  
 
Ok, I took the warning out of the description. Just a note that around the time of this comment, I pulled off four or five huge holds and feet. A major hold on the roof pull was loose, and the light colored rock at the top was quite chossy. However, I'm 6' 2" at 195lbs so that could be a contributing factor. Sep 20, 2012
dbrown
  5.10b
dbrown  
  5.10b
I thought that this route was a really fun climb and not loose at all. Didn't experience any of the negative experiences of the OP. A great climb of Jason's. Sep 17, 2012