Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Campground Wall

A Pitch In Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feelin' Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fungus The Bogey Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hiphugger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Day Dream Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sloppy Gordie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunshine Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swedish Touch, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Varicose Veins S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, 1960
Page Views: 1,245 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details


This route is given three stars in Marc Bourdon's 2012 Squamish Select guidebook. Climb up past a cedar tree rooted at the base of the slab, then go straight up (no pro) or left around a couple trees, and back right along a crack to join the main crack at another tree. Here the mountain opens up and you have a couple of exit options. Either start at wide crack on your left and continue straight up through the chimney (no pro, awkward), or go to the back of the alcove and go up the 3-4" crack that joins the wall until it gets dirty and narrow, then belly-crawl left until you can squeeze out into the daylight, or exit right (no beta). Belay at a gear anchor with rap webbing at your feet. You will be in an awkward fix when your second arrives. Continue straight up and out the roof to the left (no beta), or to the right over big loose blocks, across a face, and traverse right under a roof. Setup a gear belay and get the hell off this rig.


Between A Pitch In Time and Feelin Groovy. Trees all the way up the crack to the chimney.


Gear to 4"


- No Photos -
A truly unique and adventurous outing! Highly recommended, but make sure you are very comfortable at the grade. Fiddly gear, inobvious routefinding, and friable rock combine to make this a serious route in places. Bring a helmet! I found the guidebook descriptions of the route lacking, here's how we linked it up in two pitches.

p1: From the tree at the base proceed up and left, avoiding the dirty and unprotectable offwidth. A short, burly layback section leads to a comfortable ledge, then follow a diagonal handcrack back right to the tree at the top of the offwidth. Move past the tree into the "bowels of the mountain" and savour the wild surroundings. At the back of the sunny cave set up a very comfortable gear belay amongst the abundant cracks and boulders.

p2: Two options for progress are apparent from the back of the cave. Either go left into the darkness up a progressively narrowing chasm, or go right up the sharp white flakes into the light. The left (dark) variation is called backsack (5.8) and I can't speak to it's quality. We stuck to the right. This is where the climbing gets a bit more serious, the quality of rock and availability of gear placements for the first 15 feet leaves much to be desired, and the consequences of a fall onto the sharp flakes below would be unpleasant. Fortunately, the holds are big and the climbing is easy (5.6). Reach a large and comfortable ledge to clip your first adequate protection, a large, slung chockstone. Now pull the crux layback (5.8) to move up into the widening chimney. From here, the climbing becomes more obvious. Stick right to re-enter the mountain, then emerge onto bullethead ledge. Protection is good, but you can't place it wherever you want. I didn't find anchors at the top, instead I walked farther up to belay from a tree.

Overall, a very worthwhile route if you're looking for an adventure. The few moments of uncertainty are worth it for the outrageous experience and sense of accomplishment when re-emerging into daylight. Sep 4, 2012
Jonny 5
Squamish BC
Jonny 5   Squamish BC
I climbed this for the first pitches off width crack. It's even in the old McClane has a recommended wide crack... The other commenter makes it sound like he avoided it. Mar 8, 2015

More About Sunshine Chimney