Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, 1960
Page Views: 1,571 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route is given three stars in Marc Bourdon's 2012 Squamish Select guidebook. Climb up past a cedar tree rooted at the base of the slab, then go straight up (no pro) or left around a couple trees, and back right along a crack to join the main crack at another tree. Here the mountain opens up and you have a couple of exit options. Either start at wide crack on your left and continue straight up through the chimney (no pro, awkward), or go to the back of the alcove and go up the 3-4" crack that joins the wall until it gets dirty and narrow, then belly-crawl left until you can squeeze out into the daylight, or exit right (no beta). Belay at a gear anchor with rap webbing at your feet. You will be in an awkward fix when your second arrives. Continue straight up and out the roof to the left (no beta), or to the right over big loose blocks, across a face, and traverse right under a roof. Setup a gear belay and get the hell off this rig.

Location

Between A Pitch In Time and Feelin Groovy. Trees all the way up the crack to the chimney.

Protection

Gear to 4"

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