Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, 1960
Page Views: 1,303 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route is given three stars in Marc Bourdon's 2012 Squamish Select guidebook. Climb up past a cedar tree rooted at the base of the slab, then go straight up (no pro) or left around a couple trees, and back right along a crack to join the main crack at another tree. Here the mountain opens up and you have a couple of exit options. Either start at wide crack on your left and continue straight up through the chimney (no pro, awkward), or go to the back of the alcove and go up the 3-4" crack that joins the wall until it gets dirty and narrow, then belly-crawl left until you can squeeze out into the daylight, or exit right (no beta). Belay at a gear anchor with rap webbing at your feet. You will be in an awkward fix when your second arrives. Continue straight up and out the roof to the left (no beta), or to the right over big loose blocks, across a face, and traverse right under a roof. Setup a gear belay and get the hell off this rig.

Location

Between A Pitch In Time and Feelin Groovy. Trees all the way up the crack to the chimney.

Protection

Gear to 4"

Photos

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A truly unique and adventurous outing! Highly recommended, but make sure you are very comfortable at the grade. Fiddly gear, inobvious routefinding, and friable rock combine to make this a serious route in places. Bring a helmet! I found the guidebook descriptions of the route lacking, here's how we linked it up in two pitches.

p1: From the tree at the base proceed up and left, avoiding the dirty and unprotectable offwidth. A short, burly layback section leads to a comfortable ledge, then follow a diagonal handcrack back right to the tree at the top of the offwidth. Move past the tree into the "bowels of the mountain" and savour the wild surroundings. At the back of the sunny cave set up a very comfortable gear belay amongst the abundant cracks and boulders.

p2: Two options for progress are apparent from the back of the cave. Either go left into the darkness up a progressively narrowing chasm, or go right up the sharp white flakes into the light. The left (dark) variation is called backsack (5.8) and I can't speak to it's quality. We stuck to the right. This is where the climbing gets a bit more serious, the quality of rock and availability of gear placements for the first 15 feet leaves much to be desired, and the consequences of a fall onto the sharp flakes below would be unpleasant. Fortunately, the holds are big and the climbing is easy (5.6). Reach a large and comfortable ledge to clip your first adequate protection, a large, slung chockstone. Now pull the crux layback (5.8) to move up into the widening chimney. From here, the climbing becomes more obvious. Stick right to re-enter the mountain, then emerge onto bullethead ledge. Protection is good, but you can't place it wherever you want. I didn't find anchors at the top, instead I walked farther up to belay from a tree.

Overall, a very worthwhile route if you're looking for an adventure. The few moments of uncertainty are worth it for the outrageous experience and sense of accomplishment when re-emerging into daylight. Sep 4, 2012
Jonny 5
Squamish BC
Jonny 5   Squamish BC
I climbed this for the first pitches off width crack. It's even in the old McClane has a recommended wide crack... The other commenter makes it sound like he avoided it. Mar 8, 2015
Josh A
vancouver, british columbia
  5.8 R
Josh A   vancouver, british columbia
  5.8 R
Ended up very run out on the second pitch chimney section. I don't think there was any opportunity for gear for some distance past the chockstone. The climbing is easy, but an unexpected slip of both my feet on the somewhat dirty rock lead to a big fall and a broken ankle.

It's a cool and unique climb, the first pitch into the cave is fun, as is the caving p2 option. If you climb straight up though, proceed with caution. Nov 18, 2018
Dru B.
  5.8
Dru B.  
  5.8
You can link the whole thing with a 60m. No need to split it into two pitches. From the top of the chockstone, go up and right. Nov 20, 2018