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Routes in The Monolith

Chris Buckley's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giimoozaabi (unfinshed) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0
Monolith, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sasquatch Summer ascent S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Bowker, Jay Golden, Bradley early 1980's
Page Views: 300 total, 5/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 22, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

On the east side are two crack systems through the large overhang. This climb goes up the right system that is a little less steep. Began in the very steep gully with a 5.7-8 boulder committing boulder start to the large ledge central belay ledge on the left. From here aid was used by pitons and stoppers to get through overhang (A-2). After this 5.9 to tree. Then the route went sharply left at tree to a long dirty V groove ramp 5.5 to the top. At the time the ramp was scrubbed by Tom and Jay before I led the route. The route was retro bolted by Chris Buckley with eye bolts and at the tree goes directly up on clean rock with hanger bolts (5.6). This is the good way up. The original climb was half good and half bomb

Location

Midway up the nasty dangerous gully on the east side of Monolith

Protection

Trad rack but no longer needed. To do it trad nothing bigger than a #2 camelot is needed.

Photos

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Ladd

  5.10d
Ladd    
  5.10d
Climbed this thing today.

A fantastic adventure getting to the cliff from Crow's Nest/Jimmy Cliff. Tons of ledge scrambling and hanging out at the very nice clifftop.

Good climbing through the steep section, very well bolted and eases up significantly after that. I broke a handful of footholds and scraped a ton of lichen off of the climb. It would be a great climb if you are in the area and it was cleaned. Otherwise, not exactly worth the hike and potential injury from loose blocks in the gully. Oct 5, 2015
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
It was Chris and others should I believe, so what? First ascents are where it is most important. FFA after FA are like operating a machine already built by the FA anchors. Tom Bowker, Jay Golden and I did our best. In my perspective FFA top roped are common and less intense. It may have been top roped first and not done on sight. Aug 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Was it you or Chris who nabbed the free FA, Bradley? Aug 22, 2012