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Routes in The Island

Aah... Me Wrikey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arrowhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Balls? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Ben S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bitch With A Broomstick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Wall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bobby and The Bosch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brighton Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bruce's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Certain Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Community Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Digital Jedi S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egyptian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Feelin' All Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hole A Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horn of Plenty, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illegal Dihedral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In With The New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jesus Loves You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Light Tension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mild Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pea Green Limosine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Redhead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rescue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rub the Nub S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Search S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silent Spaz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider Pig S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spring Cleaning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squintch S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Value Jet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Billings S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Thing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Mike Snyder, 2011
Page Views: 644 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Aug 22, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Cruise up the jet black basalt blocky start to enter the big 'V' feature. Stem your way up the V to the reddish orange rock to find the crux and very sustained climbing for about 30 feet. There is a great rest before the angle slackens and the bolts spread apart. Smaller edges and tetchy climbing deposit you on top of the Island. Perhaps the longest single pitch at the Island.

This climb was originally established by Ben Franklin, a Cody local back in the 80's and early 90's. Ben installed this route circa 1993, with several bolts and perhaps janky gear placements as was the method in that era. After being berrated by another local climber for putting up a dangerous route, Ben removed the bolts but left the anchor and thus erased the route. I remember this route as it was there the year I started climbing and then randomly disappeared sometime shortly after. I learned to rappel and ascend a fixed line on the remaining anchor. Recently I returned to inspect the line for climbing and found perfect rock up high and hollow blocks in the basalt section down low. I pried off the hollow/loose stuff, scrubbed it clean and installed bolts to create a modern sport climb of super high quality. I named it Big Ben in honor of Mr. Franklins find so long ago.

Location

On the centrally located plug of granite known as the Island. This route is just right of Blackwall. It begins on the blocky black basalt rock stepping off the slanted hillside. There is/was a rock plaque with the name and grade at the base of the route.

Protection

10 bolts and chain anchor.

Photos

Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
 
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
 
Bill that forearm is lookin swol! Feb 4, 2013