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Routes in Elephant Head

Northwest Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West-Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyson Taylor, Emily Hodson, Lise Crawford
Page Views: 844 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tyson Taylor on Aug 21, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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With most of the good stuff on the higher pitches, be prepared to scramble a bit through the first half. Rope drag can be a pain as the first couple of pitches wind through various ledge systems until you reach double finger cracks about half way up. The line becomes more obvious and direct from here on out.
Mind the loose rocks and the vegetation. There's a real falling rock hazard to the belayer beneath the chimney sections. The belay requires a helmet. Keep your attachment point long enough you can steer clear of falling debris.

The whole thing can be done in 3 and a half pitches with two 60 meter ropes, running near full length.

Descent: Scramble down the westernmost south gully(4th class).


This route starts maybe 100 feet to the right of the Northwest Buttress. Aim for the diagonal chimney to the right of the arete. The good stuff starts after a pitch or two of 5.6 climbing/ scrambling up to some finger cracks set about 8-10 inches apart at the base, splitting up to 4 feet at the next obvious belay. Continue to a nice belay beneath the chimney roof. Ride the chimney to the top.


Bring a standard rack including nuts and camming units from small fingers to fists. I found myself wishing I had a double set of medium nuts. Bring plenty of slings/runners as the rope friction on the early pitches can be a drag.