Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Phat City

Brown Sugar T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Candy Apple Red S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mill and Main S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phat Free Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunburst T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweaty Betty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tangerine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tough Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Treeline T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Shelly Malkin & Tom Perkins, 2005
Page Views: 137 total, 2/month
Shared By: Kenan on Aug 21, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the farthest rightmost bolted route at Phat City. It is long and thought-provoking for the grade, ascending a a series of roofs and sharp edges with a sequence that initially appears devious.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 1 or 2 runners may be useful to reduce rope drag, but be careful of sharp edges. One or two key bolts are placed in such a way to minimize risk of the rope being cut, at the expense of additional drag.

Photos

- No Photos -
D-Storm
  5.8+ PG13
D-Storm  
  5.8+ PG13
Be wary of sending a new 5.8 sport leader up this—the high crux involves some committing moves above a ledge before you can clip the next bolt. In general, I thought the bolts were pretty well spaced, and the movement varies from overhangs and mantels to stemming and smearing, so a leader should be confident at the grade. Alternatively, the bolts can probably be supplemented with some small to medium gear to better protect the move off the ledge near the top.

Besides that, the belay area is on a precariously steep slope—a No. 3 Camalot provides a nice anchor for belaying. Jun 19, 2017
Fun climbing at the top of this route, except for the potential DEATH BLOCK near the top.... Be very careful what you step on if you decide to undercling right near the last bit of this climb, between the second to last and last bolt. Ropes run over and ON the block if you choose to top-rope.... Aug 17, 2015