Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Nameless Tower

5.10d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 119 votes
FA: Dave Tower
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32; Little Si > Woods Group > (a) Midland

Description

While this route previously required gear, it is now a fully bolted and safe sport route and is probably one of the better 5.10's at Little Si. The first crux is a tricky sequence around the third bolt. Easier face climbing leads to roof (the next crux), with the option to go directly through the roof (harder) or to step left to better holds (easier). Either way, trend up and right above the roof to the shared anchors with 'Sweet and Sticky'. 

Location

Midlands at Exit 32. The route is to the right of "Lay of the Land" and to the left of the bolted arete route "Sweet and Sticky". The start is on the ground to the left of the ledge for "Sweet and Sticky".

Protection

Route is now all bolts, was originally mixed with trad placements and had been completely ignored for years. 

10 bolts to chains with mussy hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nameless Tower top to bottom
[Hide Photo] Nameless Tower top to bottom
Chloe slabbing the slab on the tower with no name
[Hide Photo] Chloe slabbing the slab on the tower with no name

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tomtom
 
[Hide Comment] Crack has been needlessly retro-bolted. No gear required. May 28, 2017
Nick Drake
Kent, WA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I didn't think anything felt harder than other 10+ routes at the exits. If you try to get up and chicken clip above the roof early you'll make it harder though.

While I enjoy climbing trad, I climb 32 when I don't want to lug a rack around. This may stay cleaner being fully bolts. Cleaner in this case meant we were still cleaning cobwebs from the crack. Aug 14, 2017
gregman
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route that surprisingly gets an 11a in the new Snoqualmie Rock book, worth doing if you're checking out Lay of the Land regardless of grade. Jul 15, 2018
jaredj
[Hide Comment] The old 32 guide suggests that the "left" exit over the roof is 10c, while the "direct" exit is 11a. Did this yesterday, and the "left" exit is more chalked up and definitely the path of least resistance. I think I believe the new guide rating assumes the direct exit. Aug 7, 2018
Jared Stever
Redmond, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Did this today, fun and fairly easy 10b-ish climbing up to the roof. New Snoqualmie Rock book gives it a 5.11a, which felt right going straight up the roof. Probably 10c if you take the easier route around the left. Bolts are there all the way up, definitely not much of a trad climb anymore. Aug 28, 2018
Nate Riley
Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] The direct exit is still not 11a imo. Perhaps the route was graded harder when it was trad. Ignoring the grade the route is very fun. Would recommend for the trad-like feel on a sport route. I was initially worried about the run out to the first bolt but the climbing is easy enough to not be a concern. Apr 21, 2021
Chris H
Seattle, Wa
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Climbed again recently. Left variation did feel about 5.10c as I remember. After climbing BLM-6 (5.10d) and Megatherion (5.11b) the same day, I think the main line over the roof is a single 5.10d/5.11a move. Jun 27, 2021
Jordan Rogers
Bellevue, WA
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] I think this is the best 10 I've tried at Exit 38. The low crux felt harder than the roof. Aug 25, 2023