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Good To Be A Gaper

5.9, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area > Oven

Description

This is the longest easy route at Big Chief.

Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.

This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.

Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.

Location

Start on Sundance, climb up and left onto the gold headwall above The Oven.

Protection

Many draws and many long runners. 70m rope mandatory. A rope that is too short will leave you hanging in space. Make sure the ends of the rope are even!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

WooWooWoo
Truckee
[Hide Comment] Careful...I have a 70m and it didn't reach the ground. Fortunately, there is another anchor halfway down ("Open Project" in Marek's book) so you should be able to get off with a 60 or 70 in 2 raps. Jun 8, 2014
Justin Biteler
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] My 70M rope also did not touch the ground off of this anchor. Jul 3, 2017
Ryan Faye
Olympic Valley, Placer Coun…
  5.9
[Hide Comment] few comments:
-bolt 2 of Sundance is missing a hanger, probably deck if you fell before bolt 3
-recommend double length runners, I only used singles and paid for it in rope drag at the top
-70m rope wasn’t even close to the ground, used intermediate anchor for 2 raps May 21, 2018
Brice Pollock
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
[Hide Comment] After the hex I didn't see any bolts. I did find 1-2 chockstone placements in the entire second 100ft of the climb... Would recommend 3-5 hand size pieces of gear to actually protect.

The anchors are bizarrely placed. Recommend second follows with a walk off. Jun 23, 2019
Jason Schmidt
Ghent, MN
[Hide Comment] I clipped 4 bolts on Sundance, and then moved right and clipped the fixed hex, and then 8 or 9 more bolts to the top. To stay on route from the hex you head hard left with your feet on a ledge and around a slight bulge to a bolt you cannot see from the hex (the bolt you can see, up and left, is after that). There was another spot where it is hard to see the next bolt and it looks like you could follow the crack up to the bolts on the slab, but if you look around to the left and lower down you should see a bolt. No hangers missing as of Sept 2023. Sep 5, 2023