PRINT: Rock Climb A Cougar One Bite Brownie, Squamish

A Cougar One Bite Brownie

5.10a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 50 votes
FA: Chris Small, 2009
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > Petrifying Wall

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Warm up, some fun jug pulling with some delicate moves mixed in. It's listed as a mixed route by Marc Bourdon and also the FAist because of an ~15 foot section after the last bolt that would accept great pro (.75-#2 Camalot) if you're sketched. I did it without and thought it was fine. The juggy flake at that point supplies huge hand holds and after a metre past the bolt feet start appearing too.

FAist called it 10a, and I do too. Not harder than Zoe.

Shares an anchor with Heavy Petting Action, so you can use that anchor for TR if you like.

Location

It's currently the (climber's) left-most route on the crag, though I saw a fixed rope fifteen metres down so maybe it won't be for long. Bolt-line directly left of Heavy Petting Action.

Protection

9 bolts and a bolted anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adrian Suskauer
Vancouver, BC

Be sure the belayer ties a stopper knot --this is a rope stretcher if using a 60 May 2, 2021

Shawn S
Seattle WA

5.10-

Would not recommend placing any cams in the top crack, the pillar forming the crack is totally detached. The pillar may go with a light pry, tread lightly up there Aug 29, 2022