Direct South Ridge
Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Robert Merriam, William Buckingham, W. Edward Clark, 1954|
|Page Views:||1,572 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Alec LaLonde on Aug 20, 2012|
DescriptionProbably the finest route on the peak, the South Ridge provides an enjoyable passage up mostly solid, golden granite to the summit. The difficulties are not sustained, with many easy 5th class sections broken up by short 5.6-5.7 steps. The crux is likely passing through a notch on a short wall on pitch six -- a few fun, steep, well-protected moves.
We didn't do the last two pitches as the 5.8 variation looked like a more direct finish up the steep headwall near the top of the ridge. However, if following the main route, scramble to the East and up about 200 feet to avoid the steep buttress, and belay 1-2 pitches to the top.
Descent: The descent is rather complicated, but from the summit, traverse the west ridge and slowly descend to the NW. Keep angling mostly west, and follow cairns until you reach some rappel slings. Two 60-foot rappels bring you to a deep col, and from here you can scramble back down to Garnet Canyon. The exact descent trail here eluded us, but you should be able to scramble and downclimb the rest of the face, angling west. Eventually you'll reach the enormous cirque bordering the South Teton, Middle Teton and Nez Perce; and, depending on the season, it's either interminable talus and boulder-hopping or fun glissading back to the stream at the bottom of Garnet Canyon.