Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lafayette & Summit

Dirty Sanchez T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is the Route Included in the Price of the Condo? T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V2+ 5+ PG13
Redfield T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,001 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andy N. on Aug 20, 2012
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route consists of large, rectangular limestone blocks laid in a brick pattern. The wall encloses the recreational path (Oak Leaf Trail) running through the east side, and aids in supporting the Lafayette Ave bridge. The route is just north of the bridge, on the east side of the recreational corridor. The wall is dirty & crumbly in some areas so test your holds before pulling or stepping up on them. The whole climb is simply a series of awkward jugs, large, crimp-friendly slopers, or vertical cracks between blocks. There's no true crux to speak of; the climb is consistent from base to summit.

Unless you're bouldering, be aware that you may look suspicious fooling around in the bushes while you're setting your anchors, so be cautious. This is a high-traffic area, so expect numerous passers-by, both from above and below. Comments and an audience, if only for brief moments at a time - especially from the residents of the twin-tower Park Lafayette residence opposite the bike trail - are not uncommon.

Bring a towel to dry your climbing shoes prior to starting the route. The base lies in some tall grass, and water often seeps out of the wall and puddles just to the south, under the bridge.

Location

The summit is on Summit Ave. Was it meant to be? I like to think so.

Click to view location

See the link in the Protection section below, or zoom in & use google maps' "Street View" tool to view this location at ground level. Look west. As Summit approaches Lafayette to the south, you'll see the Summit Ave sidewalk bordered by a concrete wall. On the other side of this wall is a drop-off to the recreational trail below. Just north of this concrete wall, and as visible in Street View, is a wood-log fence. Behind this fence is a small grass patch at the top of the route. Here's where you'll set your anchors and rappel down to begin your climb.

If bouldering instead, one can enter the rec. trail any number of places. At the intersection of Oakland & North is an access ramp. There's another between Farwell & Prospect Avenues, between the two buildings composing UWM's Kenilworth Square Apts (the building containing Toppers, American Apparel, and Urban Outfitters). Any avid biker in Milwaukee *should* be very familiar with this rec. trail.

Protection

As noted in the "Summit & Lafayette" area comments, one can - and is encouraged to - create an anchor point HERE

Using the fence posts and/or tree trunks located here, create two anchor points with your carabiner meeting at the wall's edge. This wall can be top-roped from this anchor point, or lead and trad-climbed, finishing at this small patch of grass at the top of the route.

If you're bouldering, bring multiple pads and expect some scrapes in the event of a fall. The wall is at a slight, near-vertical incline - maybe 95 degrees from the ground - so any fall without a rope could result in both sliding down and bouncing off of the wall.

Photos

Schulb72
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8+ V2+ PG13
Schulb72   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8+ V2+ PG13
Paul and I just checked this wall out again today, this time bringing a full rack to play with. Plenty of possible placements for all types of gear including c4s, c3s, tricams, and stoppers. Short, at about 25 feet, but when you live in the city, this is your best option unless you want a 2 hour drive to DL. Feb 23, 2013

 
If you end up bouldering here I'd recommend bringing multiple pads and a tarp. There is some kind of plant(stinging nettle maybe?) that was irritating my skin every time I fell into it. I ended up cutting some out of the way and covering the rest with a tarp while I climbed. the ground can get muddy and wet(especially after it rains as water collects right near the wall) so I'd recommend some type of rag to dry your shoes off between attempts. Jun 27, 2016

More About Is the Route Included in the Price of the Condo?

Printer-Friendly