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Routes in Lily Pond

Caterpillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chicken's Choice TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nose, The S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Staircase Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tits, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 267 total, 4/month
Shared By: Miguel Berube on Aug 19, 2012
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Description

The climb starts just to the left of base of 'The Nose' (right of the bulge) traversing a horizontal crack up to a very thin finger corner crack leading to the top of the bulge (tricky footwork). Walk towards the dihedral in the middle and climb straight up the hand/fist crack (jamming or laybacking).

Protection

A couple of small nuts (size 3-4 Rocks) for the first corner crack up bulge. I pre placed a #2 Friend to protect the horizontal crack just above the bulge as the rock can be a little slippery in this section. 1 each #2-#4 Camalots for the final dihedral. There are 2 anchor bolts at the top of the climb.

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