Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA: Glenn Paya, Jeff Thomson 1998
Page Views: 680 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Camping Details


Pitch one, Avalon: 10c. The pitch has a difficult bouldery start protected by a bolt. There is a nice jug in the shallow left facing corner, climb the nice finger sized flake crack up staying mostly to the left. There are anchor bolts on a roomy ledge at the top.
Pitch two, Pyrix: 10a. (this pitch can be linked into the first pitch) It is short and follows a groove up the arete. It packs a punch for 10a.
Pitch three, Closing Number: 10c. To get to the start of the pitch, walk maybe 30 feet back in to the forest from the top of the second pitch There will be a giant wide chimney, scramble up the left side of the chimney ( 10 feet of 5.easy moves) gain a nice open ledge covered in salal bushes. The route starts from the right side of this ledge and hand traverses up in a beautiful and burly crack. A bolt protects the first difficult crux through a roof. Fun!


At the bottom of the gully of death turn left and walk about 100 yards. The route starts in a wavy shallow left facing corner system. There is a shiny bolt maybe 10 feet off the ground protecting the the starting crux boulder sequence. You can see the other two bolts on the first pitch as well.


Standard rack up to gold camalot. three bolts protect the thin cruxy sections on the first pitch, one bolt protects the initial move on the second pitch, and there are two bolts protecting the difficulties on the last pitch. Two-bolt anchors at the top of each pitch, there may or may not be cords with bail biners/rings to rap off... but you can walk through the fields of salal bushes back to the the top of the gully of death pretty easily.

Warning: the Valley of Shaddai gets very little traffic and so there tends to be some cobwebs and pine needles on most of the routes. Bring a nut tool to scrape out the holds, and/or a little brush.