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Routes in Forgotten Wall

Boiler Room, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bullet The Blue Car S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Creeping Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Creepy Crawlers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Filth Infatuated S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Forgotten Realm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
From Beneath You It Devours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Funkytown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got Pull? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Journey, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Junkyard Patio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Can't Do It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Low Impact S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maximum Extreme Climb S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mike's Link Two S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moments of Magnetism S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Passchendaele S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reacharound, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Lobster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rug Munchers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Bite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strange Days S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sudden Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trunk Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two-bit Copout S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Voodoo That You Do, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Foster 2004
Page Views: 875 total · 12/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Superb overhanging crack/face climb that will be easy if you can jam. An easy rampy start leads to the crack proper. Decent hand jams lead to a hard finger lock section, but stems and fairly good face holds lead upwards to a lieback near the top followed by a huge jug finish. Really fun. Super soft for 12c. I would give it 12a, though if you can't jam or stem proficiently for rests it might seem harder.

Location

Huge crack system right of "the Incredible Journey". Trends right to left. Starts high on a block with a fat lieback flake.

Protection

Fixed draws. 14 or so including chains. Bring one draw for bolt 1.

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Shelton Hatfield  
5.12a
Even if this route doesn't get the grade in Bourdon's guidebook it doesn't make it any less fun! Aug 23, 2013
CBarber
  5.12a
CBarber  
  5.12a
I agree its probably 12a if you are a decent crack climber. Sep 29, 2014

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