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Tangerine Fat Explosion

5.12c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 128 votes
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Whiny Baby Wall
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Description

THIS ROUTE IS THE SHIT!!!, and it's a bummer it doesn't get much traffic as it is the very last route on the far end of French Cattle Ranch. The business is right off the ground with a stout bouldery start that lasts for about 4 bolts. Unlike the neighboring route, Team Whiny Baby, the difficulty lies in powerful long moves between decent holds. Once you're through the lower crux there is a cruiser section with even longer moves between giant pods. You will wish this could go one forever. One final crux guards the anchors and this can be a heartbreaker as the holds drastically shrink in size. DO THIS ROUTE!!

Location

Easy to find. Keep walking to the far end of FCR, down a small hill just beyond the Back 40 wall. It's currently the last route on the wall.

Protection

Bolts and chains w/ lowering biners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right in the midst of the bouldery section.
[Hide Photo] Right in the midst of the bouldery section.
The crux for me was was the move before the first jug.
[Hide Photo] The crux for me was was the move before the first jug.
Tangerine Fat Explosion
[Hide Photo] Tangerine Fat Explosion
Cody Sally fighting through the bouldery start.
[Hide Photo] Cody Sally fighting through the bouldery start.
James on the mysteriously graded Tangerine Fat Explosion
[Hide Photo] James on the mysteriously graded Tangerine Fat Explosion
Nicki at the slanted rail
[Hide Photo] Nicki at the slanted rail

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This was the best route I climbed in my two weeks at ten sleep. Hard bouldery start leads to quality FUN climbing. Redpoint crux up high. A little loose rock from lack of traffic. Space between 4th and 5th bolt could lead to some airtime, dont blow it! DO THIS ROUTE! Aug 26, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route that is the real dope Shinto! Huge moves between huge holds is an understatement. Don't fear though, with some foot trickery and intermediate small holds between the giant ones, vertically challenged people can do this fairly easily. Huge fun and a must do for tensleep thugs.... Aug 23, 2015
Snook Chaipornvadee
Bangkok, TH
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] One of the best sport routes i've ever climbed. AMAZING!!!! Aug 18, 2017
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Stellar route with a fierce red-point crux at the top, one of the best in 10sleep. Do it! Sep 10, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] Just stupidly good. Many solutions to the pumpy boulder problems down low. After some more experience at the grade, I think this one is just 12c/d Nov 1, 2018
[Hide Comment] I'd say it's on the softer side of 5.12c. Still super cool climb! Highly recommend doing this for anyone looking for a good time. Sep 11, 2020
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated w/ ClimbTech Mussys 7/4/22 courtesy of The Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI / BCC). Donate & or become a member of the Bighorn Climbers Coalition (BCC) today! Jul 4, 2022
Carson Vandegriffe
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] You might want to consider extending the 5th bolt at top of the runout so that it can be clipped low from the large edge sidepull. Falling from the large move there will result in landing right on top of the starting mini roof or even lower. I took a few long falls and tweaked my ankle good before someone spoke up about how they'd extended it previously. Jul 23, 2023