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Routes in Yosemite Crack Zone (Left)

Rocky & Bullwinkle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special K T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spike T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Telephone Booth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vivian T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yosemite Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ben Kiessel (FFA), Matt Pickren, Bill Grasse
Page Views: 739 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bill Grasse on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Ben had been wondering about the line for a while. So one day we set up a rope on it and after closer inspection, a great climb was revealed. Matt and I later bolted it while Ben was at work, and then Ben came back and nabbed the FFA... so there's that....

The start takes gear and is not as easy as it looks. Also, clipping the first bolt is quite hard. Continue up big moves on the flake and finish with delicate climbing on the slab up high. Oh... and have fun clipping the anchors proudly... :)

Location

This is left of Yosemite Crack by 100 feet. Look for a slab with pockets below a big flake that is near a bolt.

Protection

#0.4-0.75 Camalots will protect the pods down low with the option of tiny cams to the right between them (black/blue Aliens). Three bolts protect the last 2/3rds of the climb, and as of now, there is lowering anchors, but we'll see how long these last until they're stolen.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Ben, solid work...I like the locks part the most...good find. Sep 25, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
What a great name! Sep 6, 2012
Ben Kiessel  
 
So there's that. Sep 4, 2012