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Routes in Main Wall and Right Wall

'MuchAid 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c C1+
5.2 T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
5.5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.5 (Main Wall) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.6 (Left of Hourglass) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 Top Rope TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
5.7 (Main Wall, Right) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7+ T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7- T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Touch Too Much T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
A Year in the Life T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Year in the Life, Variation 1 Direct Start T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blow Out T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Evening Visitor T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Foreign Invasion T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hourglass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Main Wall Traverse V2 5+
Roof Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Lucho Romero
Page Views: 815 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ed Wade on Aug 19, 2012
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Description

Start on left side of the Main wall (right of Hourglass and left of Foreign Invasion)and aim for a short vertical crack about 15 ft. up. Climb up then step right to the horizontal letterbox. Set good gear then diagonal up and right to above A Year in the Life. Set anchors or top out and walkoff right. My favorite climb at Allamuchy.

Location

Starts just to the left of Foreign Invasion and to the right of Hourglass. Look for the short vertical crack about 15ft. up. The route basically diagonalls up and right across the Main Face.

Protection

Wires and small cams, tcu's. Double up at first crack and at the letterbox. I think there is a gear placement before you reach the anchor point but not positive. Set a gear anchor above Year in the Life.

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Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
Interesting comment. I was shown this contrived route by Lucho (Columbian) in the spring of 87, assuming it was his creation. I climbed at Allamuchy extensively from 87 to 89 then moved away. If you or someone you know had originally climbed this route then by all means I will change the first ascent name. Lucho put all his bolts in ground up as did Rich Sheuer. Mike MacDonald on the other hand probably rap bolted one or two routes. The gear placements on the Main wall seem to be solid where there is opportunity. Allamuchy and Forest Lakes were our after work crags and toproping these climbs seemed awfully mundane and pointless. Lucho always told us that we should always lead climb when possible to keep that mindset. By the way, do you know who placed those old 1/4 inch buttonheads (top of the 5.5 corner and high up on Foreign Invasion)? Jul 6, 2014
The climbs at Allamuchy, were led Ground Up. Pre 1985. J Gruenberg, and the rest of us had cleaned with wire brushes and led them in the early 80s. The ascents were nearly solos, the gear was stupid hard to get on lead and then was not bomber. Because of the style of those early ascents pins and bolts were not used, not even for anchors. In hopes of adding clarity, the Bell Labs in berkley heights was the home to a ski and outdoors club who's members were the gunks regulars of the late 40's through the early 70's including Shockley. The gas crisis of the mid 70's led to greater development of rock climbing in NJ. The history of climbing and the changes in the climbers bag of tricks. led to the increase in the standards of difficulty
I am glad that the snot slick face climbs got names. They are like so many other NJ climbs, an acquired
taste. Jul 4, 2014