Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Mike Snyder, 2012 |
Page Views: | 1,837 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Aug 18, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Chug up the first 4 bolts of Gooey Grasshopper to the big slopey horizontal break. Work left to good holds and the right facing flake feature. Solve this trick and receive a restful break and opportunity to chalk up. The last 4 bolts are close enough to aid your way through to try and glean a workable sequence. The holds are small and the feet are poor. Powerful and relentless save for two decent pockets in the middle of the sequence. Finish with hands above the anchor on the top lip of the pillar. Brilliant!!! Perhaps a stout .13b once you have rehearsed a sequence, the 'c' is for the first go... tough guy.
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