Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Drugs and Sex

Acid Mother Temple S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Adrenochrome Trundle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dickin's Cider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Face Melter Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heroin Hoedown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mater Hater S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prison Sex S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vitamin I S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vitamin K S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 213 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Technical slab climbing will keep you on your toes (literally) for the first four clips. The route kicks back and requires a dyno or lunge move on steeper rock to a good pocket. The crux is the rightward sequence that follows on nasty crimps and several more tough reaches. From the jugs it steepens more but is cruiser to the top. It should be noted that this route has no 'drilled' anything as someone alluded to in the Dickins Cider Description. This route has fantastic movement, it is quite clean and very solid for the grade.

Location

Right of Mater Hater, left of Dickins Cider

Protection

11 clips

Photos

- No Photos -
Joe79  
Although it's been 15 years since I equipped this line, I do not recall drilling any monos. In my memory the only holds I manufactured in Ten Sleep were on He Biggum and I was so ashamed that I stripped the hangers the following season. Aug 10, 2014
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
I just climbed this, and while a little sandy it was not like it was in 2011. It climbs quite well in fact despite the obviously drilled mono. I removed the reference to this climb being a 'dirty POS' in the Dicken's Cider description. Aug 10, 2014
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
 
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
 
I climbed PS and DC on the same day and I thought the quality of the two routes were very similar, being that they are 10 feet apart on the same wall. I have been on both routes in the past but was never able to redpoint them. I think DC gets more traffic and is perhaps a bit cleaner, though both routes go through the peanut buttery stuff up high which IS pretty sandy. I was trying to give kudos to two old MWendling routes that are actually pretty good, but may have had some heavy handed tinkering in their development. There is one obvious drilled or enhanced pocket on PS that I did not need or use, I'm not quite sure why it is there. Every other hold on the route seemed to be au natural, except for the occasional edge dulling. Also, nothing broke off on any of the three trips up the thing that it took me to send it, so my opinion was favorable. Its a shame your experience was so different. Oct 25, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
At least according to Huey's guidebook this was 100% the route I was on, Also the grade and description match right up. Why the difference in dirtyness and choss, no idea, maybe it's cleaned up in the last 1.5 years. As far as the drilled pockets go, I'm pretty sure they are drilled, but aren't going to drive up to Wyoming any time soon to prove my point. Oct 17, 2012
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
Sounds like you guys weren't doing the route you thought you were. Good thing he/you are adding routes to the database... Oct 17, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
I was the one that told WagBag this climb was a pile of garbage, (and he belayed me on it as I pulled stuff off and sand rained down). When I tried it (July 11), it was the worst climb I got on in Ten Sleep, very dirty and crumbly. I remember breaking off plenty of holds. I also remember plenty of drilled pockets, maybe I'm wrong and they only look like drilled pockets, but I'm pretty conservative about what I call drilled. My notes from that climb are: "Awful, one of the worst climbs I have ever been on, dirty, crumbly, and a lot of drilled pockets". Oct 16, 2012