[Hide Comment] Ignore the description.

Desert Sunset starts in a blocky/sandy area the bulge to the right of 'SPAM'. Walk down the hillside a little so you can see the splitter cracks at the top before you start.

Following face climbing and edges, up a finger or hand crack in a flake, on he right. It would be possible to go straight up, but rock quality looked a bit better further left toward the corner. Work up/right to the base of the steep twin cracks, where rock quality and cleanliness improves dramatically. Up the twin cracks, over the bulge, then follow the zig-zagging splitters all the way to the chains. Probably 145 pitch'

Our 70m rope did not come close to reaching the ground. Take two ropes. If leading on a single, bring several runners. Anchor is one bolt and one hex pounded into the crack, with webbing and fixed biners.

Rack 2x Yellow Aliens to #3 camalot, with 5x #2 camalots, 3x#1 and #.75 Apr 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] blake is right on the money with his comment; the description and main photo are inaccurate. in terms of length, my 70 was well short of the ground and we used up at least 75 feet of a second rope getting me down. 150+ feet; likely 50m.

rather than head left to the corner as blake did, i cleaned a few blocks out of the dirty section (immediately beneath a large block marked with an "X") and through a tough, but super fun, stemming/fingerlocking/face climbing section. ditto on blake's gear beta - this route is LONG and will eat up a lot of cams.

as of March 2010, this route is marked by a plaque with the route name, grade (11b), and date of ascent (10-85). the second picture of "tony high on the route" matches the guidebook description. also, the anchor currently consists of a fixed hex and one bolt; the webbing is absolutely nasty, dry, faded mank - the cord coming off the hex was at least 30% ripped as of 3/6/10. bring a knife and some webbing (or extra cams & slings) if you're looking to set up a TR. Mar 7, 2010

[Hide Comment] nice post , an thank god some one got the name an climb right on this climb. i've seen this name used for two other climbs on this wall in adds an mag pics ... the route however is 4 spice its steep an loose in spots pro is good. last time i was up thear the anchors wer a shit show... no one is ever on this thing... was it dusty? Aug 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] The anchors are more like 150 feet from the ground, 120 is not even close to accurate. Also I only used 1 #2 and 1 #3 on the whole route. I'd say .4-4 with 5 #1's and maybe 4 or 5 .75's. Anchor is one hex equalized with a bolt (good enough) and is guarded by the crux. Good adventure pitch although a bit sandy! Apr 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] Anchor has been updated by the ASCA Apr 16, 2018

[Hide Comment] Awesome awesome awesome adventure climb! Be careful midway, don't go right at the party ledge. Be wary of a hollow flake above the corner. One of my favorite pitches - where else do you find a splitter tight handcrack that's dusty??? Worth the spice. Anchors are good as of 21'
5 star climb but I guess the spice factor brings it to 3. Nov 30, 2021