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Routes in The Urban Alpine Crag

Gneiss Lee Done S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hasbeen Done S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K2 (Kerry Kell's Route) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mike in the Fast Lane S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Morin a Minute S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roach Clip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,604 total, 25/month
Shared By: Lee Smith on Aug 16, 2012 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This is the last route on the right side of the crag. It is a great cruiser warm-up that will give you an introduction to what the climbing is like at the UAC. Starts with a left-facing flake and cruxes early. Continue through the surprisingly (although not entirely) solid, kitty litter band to the anchor. The anchor is accessible from the top. Take care on the bushwhack up as it gets deceptively close to the edge.

Protection

Top rope anchor - a block slung with a cable.

Apparently, someone (not the original developers) has bolted this route for leading. Well ... great I guess. I might have been nice if you asked....

Photos

Alyx Bowen
Sheridan
Alyx Bowen   Sheridan
Took my GF to this wall as an introduction to climbing. She loved it, and I think she is hooked. It looks loose towards the anchor at the top, but no real dodgers fell. Used some webbing to supplement the wire wrapped around the boulder at the top, and I did notice the sheath around the wire cord was disintegrating with a bit of rust. Only after looking at this route on here did I realize it was named after a fellow Antarctican. Nov 1, 2015
MountainManny
Idaho Springs
  5.7
MountainManny   Idaho Springs
  5.7
Pretty straightforward....

The slung cable is solid and has two quick-links attached. Very easy to attach your own gear by simply sliding the links over to yourself on the ledge you hiked to above.
The hike up and around isn't too bad, a little slick if moisture/snow exists, but it takes like 2 minutes.
The walk down is worse than it is up...rap it back to the deck.
This climb and Roach Clip have the best belays at the crag.

The 5.7~ish seemed correct for K2...I would say that the route to the left of K2 (Roach Clip) is coming in around close to the same at more like 5.8 not .9 but fun indeed. Jan 24, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
This is a fun, short climb. The rock does not look very solid, but nothing broke off as I climbed. Nov 6, 2012