Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pferchfeldturm (Tower)

Großer Südriss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: H. Laub 1955
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 15, 2012
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This thing is super cool! Having said that, there are plenty of people who hate this route too...
It's the obvious and impressive first crack you come to upon walking around the southern side of the tower. It starts with a difficult fingers section (keep to the right to make it easier) and then opens up to some nice hands and broadens into some tight chimney climbing. Then you climb out a roof and continue up easier rock.
At the top, you can either stop at the last ring or continue to the absolute top where there is no anchor. On top, to the right of the route and at the edge of the tower is an abseil ring which will get you to the lower platform, from which you can lower from a tree. The last few meters of climbing aren't really worthwhile and chances are you've got a fair bit of rope drag holding you back, so lowering off the last ring at 35m will put you back on terra firma. A 70m rope is an obvious must for this approach.

Protection

3 rings, full rack, slings for building an anchor.

Photos

0 Comments