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Routes in Botany Bay a.k.a "The Stadium"

All Strikes. No Balls. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Around The Horn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Babe Ruthless S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Chin Music S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Aaron S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cy Hung S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grand Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jose Conflako S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mayday Malone S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mickey Mantle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pete Throws S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pinch Hitter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reggie Crackson S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ryne Sandbag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slider S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tug Madraw S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 756 total · 11/month
Shared By: BBQ on Aug 14, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

If you love long, technical routes with varied terrain, powerful moves and beautiful veiw from the nosebleed section of the upper deck, do not miss this one!

As far as we can tell, this is the only two pitch route in Spearfish Canyon (baseball pun intended!)

The first pitch has you hurling yourself over powerful moves on overhung, blonde rock and is believed to go at 5.11c. Get ready to crimp and beg for the next jug! This fairly famous pitch has at least two stopper cruxes, both involving technique and the need to beat a quickly running pump clock. The last ten feet before the anchors seem to shut down most climber's dreams of running around all the bases before completely running out of steam.

After a pumpy/technical battle, gain the first anchors and bail if you are about to barf. Or, if you can handle more innings of ass-kickery, take a few dozen deep breaths and get that heart rate back to normal. The next 20 feet of climbing involves an easy slab that becomes a mental challenge because of the long run out known as "The Second Inning Stretch."

After groveling through the run out, clip a bolt in the steep, black belly, preferably using a shoulder length sling. Gain some more ground on a strange blocky outcropping and clip another bolt over your shoulder. AND NOW THE FUN BEGINS! Navigate and crawl up two small holds (a right hand sidepull and a left hand sloper crimp) to a good right hand side pull and gain some traction with a left knee bar. Using your left hand, reach out and grab a long black and orange rail using pure precision and allow your feet to cut. Allow your body to swing to the left in the correct gymnastic sequence and huck for a left hand juggy crimp, get a leg up to a knob and clip. There is no time to waste! Commit to some sick crimps and reach to the right around the finny feature to a pocket. Hoist yourself up on scary feet and rest on huge holds.

Get it all back and finish with the best five ten climbing in the canyon up a black and blonde arete with big moves and huge holds with exposure that will leave you breathless and begging for more if you send. For some, this is the warm-up for the rest of the crag. For many, it will be a lifetime achievement award. Get on it and be ready to play ball!

AN ABSOLUTE MUST DO! YOU WILL NOT WANT TO MISS THIS ONE!

Location: Great winter climbing in the sun from about 9 am to 2 pm

This tall drink of water warms the bench in the middle of The Dugout. 4th bolt line from the right most side of The Dugout.

Note: At the time of this writing Around The Horn has at least two variations, one trending left to Pinch Hitter's anchors and another one on the second pitch that traverses left to its own independent anchor. See All Strikes No Balls for more details.

Protection

Thirteen bolts. Open shut anchors. This climb has no perma-draws in place. Extending a few draws helps with rope drag. Use a longer draw on the 5th bolt of the first pitch. A shoulder length sling with carabiners appropriately protects the first bolt on the second pitch (right after the run out) and reduces rope drag. A sixty meter rope will get you up and down this route safely if you tie a knot in the end, but if you own a seventy meter this would be the time to break it out.

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